Xteink X4 screen replacement: the complete step-by-step DIY guide.

Power off completely

Hold the power button until the screen goes completely dark and blank, not just sleep. On CrossPoint firmware (a popular third-party/custom firmware some Xteink owners install; skip this if you’re on stock firmware), confirm via the shutdown option in the menu. On stock firmware, hold until the screen refreshes to blank.

Tip. For stock firmware, a full power-off takes 3–5 seconds of button hold. The screen will do a final refresh pattern then go blank.

Remove the MicroSD card

Use a SIM ejector pin, thin paperclip, or long fingernail to press the microSD card out of the side slot. Set it aside safely; you’ll want it with your new device.

Tip. The slot requires pushing inward then releasing (push-push mechanism). The card will spring out slightly.

Photograph the device exterior

Take reference photos of every side: top, bottom, left, right, front, back. These help you remember button positions, cable routing, and which side you opened from.

Heat the back cover edges

Set your heat gun to the lowest heat setting (or use a hair dryer on high). Hold it 8–10 inches from the device and move in slow sweeping passes along all four edges. The goal is to soften the thermal adhesive that bonds the metal back cover to the device body, not to melt or warp anything.

Heat for 1–2 minutes total. The device should feel warm to the touch (not hot). If you cannot hold the edge for 3 seconds it’s too hot; let it cool slightly.

Open the metal back cover

While the adhesive is still warm, insert a plastic pry tool into the seam between the back cover and the device body. The teardown identifies this as a metal back cover with a hollowed-out magnetic ring in the middle.

Start at a corner (bottom corner is usually the easiest entry point). Gently work the tool along the seam. As you progress, insert opening picks or guitar picks behind you to keep the seam open.

Work slowly around all four sides. The adhesive will creak and pop as it releases; this is normal. Do not force: if resistance is high, apply more heat.

Tip. A small suction cup applied to the back cover center helps lift the cover upward as you separate the adhesive bond.

Lift the back cover carefully: check for attached cables

Once the adhesive releases on all sides, do not yank the back cover off. Lift it slowly and inspect whether any ribbon cables (the flat flex cables that carry signal) or wires run to it. The teardown shows the function button cables are fixed at the bottom by a metal strip; these may route to or near the back cover.

Photograph the interior before touching anything.

Understand the internal layout

From the iMedia teardown report, the X4 internal layout is:

• Top: battery unit (fixed)
• Middle: main board with hollowed-out magnetic ring; irregular shape
• Bottom: function button cables, fixed by a metal strip

The e-ink screen connects to the main board via a ZIF flex cable. The screen also has a magnetic ring embedded in it, the same kind of ring used to snap the device onto a magnetic stand or phone case; it has nothing to do with charging.

Tip. Take a photo of the whole interior layout now, before any disconnection.

Disconnect the battery

The X4 is powered by a lithium-polymer (LiPo) cell. Locate the battery connector on the main board. Use a plastic spudger or your fingernail to gently pop the connector straight up and off its socket. Do not lever it sideways, as this can bend the connector pins.

This is a critical safety step. Working with the battery connected risks a short circuit if a metal tool touches the board.

Locate and unlock the ZIF connector

Trace the flex cable from the e-ink screen to where it connects to the main board. This is a ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) connector: it has a small brown or black locking tab that must be flipped up before the cable can slide out.

Use the tip of a metal spudger or fine tweezers: hook gently on both sides of the connector lock and flip it upward (toward you). It should rotate on a hinge. Do not pull the cable without unlocking first, as this tears the cable.

Slide out the flex cable

With the ZIF lock open, the flex cable slides straight out of the connector. Use your fingers or tweezers to pull it out parallel to the board; no force is needed if the lock is properly open.

Tip. If the cable won’t slide out, the lock is not fully open. Do not force.

Remove the broken screen panel

The e-ink panel is held in its frame by adhesive (double-sided tape). Heat the edges of the panel with brief heat gun passes to soften. Then use a thin plastic tool or knife to work around the edge and lift the panel out.

Work slowly and at a shallow angle. E-ink panels are extremely thin, and forcing at a steep angle will snap any intact portions.

Tip. Per the Sony PRS-T3 iFixit guide: "Use any suitable knife to detach broken screen from metal plate." The same principle applies here.

Remove the magnetic ring (X4 specific)

The X4’s e-ink screen assembly includes the embedded magnetic ring described above. If the replacement panel does not include this ring, carefully remove it from the broken panel and transfer it to the new one.

The magnetic ring is a thin disc held by adhesive inside the screen cavity. Pry gently with a spudger from the back of the panel frame.

Remove all adhesive residue

Dampen a lint-free cloth or cotton swab with 90%+ isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Clean all adhesive residue from the panel frame, the back of the screen cavity, and any surfaces the new panel will touch.

Allow the IPA to evaporate completely before proceeding (30–60 seconds in a dry environment).

Remove all glass fragments

Inspect the device interior with good lighting. Remove every visible glass fragment with tweezers. Even a 1 mm shard between the new panel and the board will cause pressure cracks or refresh failures.

Consider using compressed air briefly to dislodge any particles from the corners.

Check the VCON tag on your replacement panel

Look for a small paper tag attached to the new panel (often looped around the flex cable). Note the VCON voltage value printed on it. If you can read the VCON from the old panel, compare the two values.

If the difference is under 0.3 V, proceed without adjustment. Above that, the display may need VCON trimming (advanced procedure, beyond scope of this guide).

Apply double-sided tape to the new panel frame

Cut strips of 0.5 mm double-sided tape to fit around the perimeter of the panel back. This secures the new panel in its frame. Do not place tape over the flex cable opening.

Tip. Thinner is better: 0.5 mm tape keeps the device profile flat. Thicker tape prevents the case from closing.

Position and seat the new panel

Remove the protective film from the new panel (both front and back). Carefully align the panel in the frame: the flex cable should route toward the connector on the main board. Once aligned, gently press down to make contact with the tape.

Connect the flex cable

Slide the new panel’s flex cable into the ZIF connector, making sure it goes in straight and all the way to the stop line (usually marked with a black line on the cable). Then close the ZIF lock by pressing it down until it clicks.

Verify through magnification that the cable is fully seated and the lock is closed all the way.

Reconnect the battery and test BEFORE reassembly

Reconnect the battery connector. Power on the device by holding the power button for 3–5 seconds. Watch for:

• Success: screen does a full refresh, boot logo or CrossPoint splash appears
• Blank screen: ZIF cable not fully seated; re-open and reseat
• Partial display / half dark: panel pinout mismatch or ZIF not fully locked
• Heavy ghosting: VCON mismatch; minor ghosting is normal initially and may clear after several refresh cycles

Tip. A fresh CrossPoint firmware flash after successful boot helps clear display memory and normalize refresh behavior.

Power off again before closing

Once the screen test is successful, power off the device completely before closing the case. This prevents any accidental button presses during reassembly from triggering unexpected behaviour.

Apply case adhesive

Apply a thin bead of B-7000 adhesive or 0.5–1 mm double-sided foam tape around the perimeter of the back case edge. B-7000 gives a more durable seal; double-sided tape is reversible for future access.

Tip. For B-7000: use a toothpick for precision. Allow 15 minutes of tack time before pressing the cover shut. Full cure is 24 hours; do not stress the seam during this period.

Press the back cover shut and clamp

Align the back cover carefully (the USB-C notch and button cutouts must line up exactly). Press firmly and evenly around all edges. Use rubber bands or binder clips (padded with cloth) to clamp the case shut while the adhesive cures.

Final test and cleanup

After adhesive cure (minimum 4 hours for B-7000; 24 hours for full strength), power the device on for a final test. Check:

• full screen refresh works
• all physical buttons respond
• USB-C charging works (X4) / pogo pin charging works (X3)
• MicroSD card is read correctly
• magnetic ring still snaps onto a stand or case (unrelated to charging)

Reinstall your MicroSD card, reflash CrossPoint if desired, and restore your library.